Retaining Wall Permit Checklist

Part 1: Measure Your Wall Correctly

Building departments measure retained height from the bottom of the footing, not from finished grade. Make sure you are using the right measurement before deciding whether a permit is needed.

• Measure from the bottom of the planned footing to the top of the wall This is the "retained height" used for permit threshold comparisons — not the visible wall height above grade
• Confirm your state's permit threshold (3 ft or 4 ft) Most states use 4 ft (IRC baseline). California, Maryland, and some other states/cities use 3 ft. Check: State Guides or Permit Checker Tool
• Check for surcharge above the retained soil Any driveway, parking area, pool, building foundation, or ascending slope above the wall is a surcharge — permits required regardless of height
• Check whether wall is part of a tiered system Two walls closer than 3× the lower wall's height are treated as a single system. Add both retained heights together for permit threshold comparison
• Measure distance from wall face to property lines Most jurisdictions require a permit for any wall within 3–5 ft of a property line regardless of height. Also calculate footing setback (footing extends 12–18 in beyond wall face)

Part 2: Before You Apply

• Identify your permit-issuing jurisdiction (city or county) If inside city limits: city building department. If outside city limits (unincorporated): county building department. Check your property tax bill or county parcel map
• Call your building department and confirm permit requirement Ask specifically about your wall height, surcharge condition, and tiered configuration. Get confirmation in writing (email) if they say no permit is needed
• Ask whether engineer-stamped plans are required Required in most jurisdictions for walls over 4 ft, any surcharge condition, tiered systems, and California walls over 3 ft
• Confirm permit fee and payment method Fees range from $75 to $600+ depending on jurisdiction. Many departments now accept online payment
• Check for HOA approval requirement if applicable HOA approval and building permits are separate. Get HOA approval first — design changes after engineering costs money
• Call 811 (national call-before-you-dig line) Required by law before any excavation. Utility locates take 2–3 business days. Do this before your footing inspection is scheduled

Part 3: Application Documents to Prepare

• Site plan (to scale) Shows: lot boundary, house location, wall location and length, distance from wall to property lines, drainage direction. Many departments accept hand-drawn plans for simple walls
• Wall cross-section drawing Side view showing: wall height, footing dimensions (width and depth), reinforcement if applicable, drainage layer, and backfill material
• Drainage design Shows how water behind the wall is collected (perforated drain pipe, gravel layer) and discharged (outlet location, day-lighting point)
• Material specifications CMU block dimensions, timber grade and treatment, concrete mix design, reinforcing steel size and spacing, segmental block product data sheet
• Engineer-stamped plans (if required) Must bear the PE stamp and signature of a licensed structural engineer in your state. Verify your engineer is licensed in the state where the project is located
• Completed permit application form Download from your building department's website or pick up at the counter. Have your property address and parcel number ready
• Permit fee payment Check your building department's accepted payment methods. Many accept credit cards online; some require check or cash in person

Part 4: During Construction

• Post permit card on site before any work begins Most jurisdictions require the permit card to be visibly posted at the work site. Keep approved stamped plans on site as well
• Schedule footing inspection BEFORE pouring concrete This is the most critical inspection. Call 24–48 hours ahead. Inspector verifies footing depth, width, and rebar placement. Never pour before inspection passes
• Install drainage pipe and gravel layer before backfilling Perforated drain pipe at the base of the wall, surrounded by clean crushed stone (typically 3/4" clean gravel), wrapped in filter fabric. Inspector will verify at final
• Build to approved plans — no field modifications without approval Any change from the approved plans (different dimensions, materials, or footing depth) requires a plan revision submitted to and approved by the building department before proceeding

Part 5: Final Inspection and Sign-Off

• Schedule final inspection after wall is complete and backfill is in place Inspector verifies: wall height and construction matches approved plans, drainage outlet visible and unobstructed, backfill material appropriate
• Pass final inspection and receive signed-off permit card The signed permit card is your proof of legal construction. Keep this permanently with your property records
• File permit card and stamped plans with your property records These documents will be requested when you sell the property. Store with your deed, survey, and other permanent property records

Part 6: Retroactive Permit (For Existing Unpermitted Walls)

If your wall was built without a required permit, here is what you will need for the retroactive (as-built) permit process.

• Hire a licensed structural engineer for as-built inspection Engineer visits the site, inspects the existing wall, and produces as-built drawings showing actual dimensions, materials, footing conditions, and drainage
• Submit as-built drawings with retroactive permit application Note on application that this is a retroactive/as-built permit. Expect penalty fees of 2–4× the standard permit fee
• Schedule as-built inspection Inspector may require partial exposure of footing to verify depth. Be prepared for this possibility before scheduling
• Address any code compliance issues identified during review Common issues: insufficient footing depth, missing drainage, improper setback. Work with your engineer on a remediation plan if issues are found

Questions to Ask Your Building Department